To walk or drive even a short distance in the Royal Burgh of Haddington, is to be reminded of its rich, historical heritage, a heritage which has been jealously protected, and is embodied in its architecture, an almost perfect example of the Georgian county town.
Granted the Royal Charter in the early 12th century by David ), Haddington housed a royal residence, (on the site now occupied by the council buildings in Court Street) and is the reputed birthplace of Alexander II of Scotland, and possibly William the Lion.
Originally, the burgh consisted of a large triangle made up of what is now High Street, Market Street and Hardgate, but during the 16th century, the "middle row" that is the north side of High Street and the south side of Market Street was built. Though the original buildings have long disappeared, the basic street pattern remains to this day.
Haddington's early prosperity was almost entirely due to its geographic location, situated on a bend of the river Tyne, in the heart of some of the most fertile agricultural land in the country. Six miles away was the then busy seaport of Aberlady, where vital trading links were established. Edinburgh, the capital city, was one day's walk to the west.
Unfortunately, two things spoiled this idyllic situation. Haddington stood on the main route from England, and the Tyne had a great propensity to overflow its banks. Scattered at more or less regular intervals throughout its history, therefore, we hear tales of devastation by sword, fire or floods.
Nevertheless, good times existed, and it is hard to imagine that, at one time, (albeit in the early 15th century), Haddington was the fourth largest town in Scotland, with only Aberdeen, Dundee, and Edinburgh boasting a larger population. Glasgow, ii appears, was insignificant in comparison!
Sadly such prosperity could only be short lived when the town was constantly on the alert against English attacks.
The infamous King John, can perhaps claim the honour of first putting Haddington to the sword, in 1216, and for the next three hundred years, it was to be an oft repeated experience.
Indeed, up until the reign of Henry VI II, a variety of kings, including Edward I, the Hammer of the Scots, wrecked fearful and complete destruction, on the ill protected township, on at least seven occasions. Since the houses at that time were constructed simply of timber and thatch, they required to be completely rebuilt after each incident. It was one by the name of Hertford, who was responsible for the final raid, and according to his despatch to King Henry, Haddington had once again, been "well brent!"
Perhaps, however, the most significant military episode of all, involved the protracted siege of 1548-49, the longest in Scotland's history.
Following the battle of Pinkie in 1547, most of southern Scotland was in the hands of the English, and a large garrison was stationed in Haddington, where surprisingly, the townsfolk seemed to make them welcome.
Laying siege on the town, were the twin forces of France and Scotland, in encampments at Lennoxlove and Clerkington. During the eighteen months that were to follow, the plague struck, hunger was rife, and many skirmishes occurred, with the bravery of the defending English outstanding.
When at last, an English force marched from Berwick on Tweed, in September 1547, to effect a rescue, the Scots and French had somehow retreated to Tranent. The evacuation was successful, and an important era had come to an end.
The story of Haddington is not only one of terror, trade and torrents, however. Ever since its origins can be traced, it has been to the forefront in matters ecclesiastical.
Although famous as the birthplace of john Knox, the renowned reformer, (in actual fact he was born in Giffordgate, then a suburb across the Tyne from St. Mary's Church), Haddington and district had housed various monasteries, nunneries and religious orders for many centuries. It is no coincidence that of the three oldest buildings still standing, two of them, St. Mary's and the ruined chapel of St. Martin's in the Nungate, are places of worship. The third is the Nungate, or "Old" bridge, which has some historical merit, both because of its age, (a bridge, even then described as "old", stood on that spot as long ago as 1282), and the fact that it often doubled as the gallows, in an age when "justice" was both quick and permanent.
Prior to the reformation, Haddington was a stronghold of Catholicism, rated as being second only to St. Andrews, in the whole of Scotland, while later it strongly approved of the covenanters, and presumably sympathised with those unfortunates imprisoned on the Bass Rock.
On a lighter vein, as far back as the early 4700's the town could lay claim to being the "Gretna Green" of the east coast. Because its Episcopalian church, then situated in the Poldrate, was first on the road out of England, runaways, whose forefathers may have come to pillage, frequently chose to marry in Haddington, safe from English law and parental disapproval!
Today, Knox is recalled in the name of th6 academy, and by a statue on the presently redundant Knox Institute on the Pencaitland road, while St. Mary's, the "parish" church of old, stands proudly restored, a fitting reminder of the town's many religious connections.
Haddington has many and varied other claims to fame. The parliament that sanctioned Mary Queen of Scots first marriage, (to the sickly Dauphine of France), met there, while husband number three, Bothwell, had occasion to hide in a mansion house in the Hardgate when pursued by hostile enemies. Ever since, this establishment was erroneously referred to as Bothwell's Castle, and has disappeared, only within the memory of many present Haddingtonians. The bowling green at the Sands, opposite Lady Kitty's Garden, is said to be the oldest in Scotland, while the Wemyss Place bowling club was formed some six years before the First Jacobite Rebellion.
lane Welsh, wife of Thomas Carlyle, was both, and is buried in Haddington, while Samuel Smiles, author of the "Self Help" books, was born in a house in the High Street.
Gilbert Burns, brother of the bard, farmed just outside Haddington, and is buried with their mother, and his family, in the churchyard at nearby Bolton.
More recently, a local joiner gave brief employment to a youthful Sean Connery, who still, it is said, talks fondly of his experiences as an "undertaker".
The sense of history is never far away in Haddington, and has been dramatically resurrected in recent years, in the shape of the Lamp of the Lothian Trust.
The aim of the Lamp is to benefit and be of service to the community of Haddington and its success is such that it has been acclaimed far and wide. Chaired by the Dowager Duchess of Hamilton, this unique organisation, has supervised and made possible, the restoration, for the use of the public, some of Haddington's finest old buildings.
St. Mary's Church, a large and ancient place of worship, half of which lav in ruins for more than 400 years, was restored, and is now whole. Haddington House, the oldest private dwelling place in the burgh and of great architectural merit, was saved from demolition to become the Lamp's headquarters. In between those fine old buildings, is St Mary's Pleasance, a distinctive period garden, the walls of which were built by Napoleonic prisoners of war. Its future has been assured, thanks to the Trust.
The Poldrate Mill, functional until 1968, is a beautifully original community building, while the mill cottages house a particularly active youth club, "The Bridge", which overflows into the latest piece of resurrection, the granary, another part of the old mill complex.
Although highly involved in the so called "cultural" aspects of community life, (and indebted to Yehudi Menuhin the world famous violinist, whose live concerts have helped boost funds) the Lamp of the Lothian caters for much more than those with minority interests. Its involvement with a pre-school music and movement group, the youth club, and with the social services in providing a lunch club for the elderly, means that few Haddingtonians can go through life without having it enriched by the work of the truly remarkable Lamp of the Lothian Trust.
Haddington no longer stands on the main road south, and runaway marriages appear to be a thing of the past. As the heavy Goods Vehicles thunder along the by-pass, Haddington is, almost symbolically it seems, left in comparative peace.
Our foreign neighbours no longer pose a constant threat to our safety. It is long since Haddington was last put to the sword, and even the Tyne has been contained of late.
Ironically, however, in this era of the multinational company, a major source of employment is provided by those more peaceful "invaders", Mitsubishi. Like the English at the time of the siege, they seem to have been well received by the locals!
When the reorganisation of local government that introduced community councils, decided to link Athelstaneford and Haddington, it was, despite the difference in size, historically speaking, a marriage of equals.
The story of Elshinford, as it was traditionally known, goes back to that grey area between history and folklore with the legend of the St. Andrew's Cross.
Tradition decrees that in times long past, Pictish and Scottish warriors were about to engage in battle with a Northumbrian force, when they looked up and saw, in the cloud formation against a blue sky, a large white cross. A famous victory followed, and the blue and white banner was eventually adopted as the national flag of Scotland.
Whatever the truth of this story, Athelstaneford commemorated the event in 1965, when they unveiled a plaque in the churchyard. From that day to this, it has enjoyed the distinction of being the only village in Scotland to fly the Saltire continuously.
In this year, when Scotland's oldest regiment, The Royal Scots celebrated the 350th anniversary of the granting of their charter by Charles I, it is worth noting that they can trace their origins back to Athelstaneford, the birthplace of their founder, Sir John Hepburn. Interestingly, their creation pre-dated the granting of the charter for many years, since they previously fought throughout the continent, on behalf of the French, in the days when the "Au Id Alliance" was far more important than any connection with the English Crown.
Today, Athelstaneford could almost pass for a typical Scottish village, its unassuming presence at the foot of the Garleton Hills belying its important contribution to Scotland's Heritage.
The name Elshinford is preserved in the conversation of the locals and the quaintly named football team, Elshinford Bluebell; meanwhile, the flag of St. Andrew flies uninterrupted.
Robert G Mitchell 1983